This weekend a very exciting travel was ahead of us. We were going to see famous snow monkeys and check out traditional Japanese onsens (hot natural springs with healing powers).
SHINKANSEN
The place we were going to was located not far from Nagano.
To get there from Tokyo, there are few options: either take shinkansen (high-speed train) or a local train. Japan is famous for its railroads and fast trains, thus we have chosen a shinkansen as a means of transportation.
The trains goes up to 320 km/hour and is a very pleasant experience. It takes 1 hour 45 minutes to get to Nagano and costs 8000 yen (65 euro) one way. Generally speaking, trains and transportation are expensive in Japan.
Different types of shinkansens in Tokyo area. source: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:JR_East_Shinkansen_lineup_at_Niigata_Depot_200910.jpg
The first thing that happened to us (as usually) in the first 5 minutes of ride: one friend travelling with us spilled a beer on a floor. Getting a paper towel was impossible, so he had to get out one of his t-shirts in order to whipe the floor. I guess it seemed pretty fun for Japanese people to watch that.
Views from the ride
LOCAL TRAIN FROM NAGANO
To get to our hotel, we had to take another one hour ride with a local train to Yudanaka station. After looking at the timetable, we understood, that the train was leaving soon and we had to hurry up. We got the tickets from the ticketing machine and attempted to enter the station. The station manager stopped us and took our tickets. We were not sure, what was going on. He gave us back the money at the amount that we have paid at the machine and has also given us a ticket with a stamp. Only after arriving at destination we figured out, why he did so.
We have purchased a ticket to express train, which was only 100 yen more expensive than a local train. But as we have taken a local train, we had to get those 100 yen refunded. Japanese people generally will never take more money from you that is stated and will never try to rip of.
Local train ride
View around Yudanaka station
HOTEL
At Yudonaka station we were picked up by the hotel owner by car. The hotel was approximately 5 minutes ride from the station, in the famous onsen area.
The place is done is traditional Japanese style. We were welcomed with tea by the owner's wife. She was wearing traditional Japanese kimono. Upon entry to the building, we were asked to take of the shoes, place them in the box, and put special slippers for the inside. By the way, when you enter the room, you need to take those of, when entering washroom you need to put special toilet slippers on.
reception
welcome drink
The room we got is shared for 4 people: mattresses on the floor, low Japanese table,tea. In addition to the room, we have also received traditional Japanese outfits - kimono. We got a crash course in putting those things on: you usually have underwear under, women keep bra on. You put the main kimono on, for guys left side on top of the right, for girls the other way around. Then you put a special belt on: guys put the red side on top, girls green side on top. Than you put special jacket, not to get cold. The best part of the outfit, of course, are wooden slippers. It is really funny but difficult to walk in those.
Room
Clash of cultures
Sumo fight
ONSENS
The area around hotels is very famous and in the right times seem to attract lots of tourists (there are approximately 30-40, or even more, hotels). We were lucky enough not to see a single tourist on the street, which made our experience even more Japanese.
In the hotel we received a map of public bathhouses in the area as well as restaurants. Additionally we also received a towel and a key to all those public bathhouses (onsens). There were 12 different onsens available for us, each one is supposed to have different temperature and different minerals in the water, and each one heals different things.
After having a large ramen for dinner, we headed to our first onsen. The places are open from 6 p.m. till 10 p.m. every day. There are special rules on how to use public bathhouse. Women and men are separated. Everyone is naked at the place, but you are supposed to cover your "treasures" with a towel. After you enter the bath, you put a towel on your head and when you come out you cover your "treasures" again. Before coming in, you need to spray yourself with some water and get used to the temperature in the bath. Bath temperatures varied from 50 to 72,5 C.
All the 12 onsens that we visited this evening were empty and we could enjoy the privacy fully. Once we have met a very old woman entering an onsen. I am afraid to make a guess about her age.
Sometimes it took us quite a long time to get used to the temperature and be able to get in the water. Interesting thing was that depending on some factors, same water temperature in different onsens would feel differently.
Overall it was a very pleasant traditional experience. The road between onsens was full of temples and shriens, as well as all hotels in the area was built in a traditional Japanese way.
SUSHI PLACE
Sitting in a 70 degree water makes you hungry quite fast =). After visiting all onsens, we headed towards one and only sushi restaurant in the area. It seemed like they were already closing when we arrived. The old guy greeting us at the entrance has asked another guy inside: Gaijin-san.....blahblahblah...
We sat at a traditional low Japanese table and ordered a few hot Japanese sake and a few Asahi beers for a chase.
The guy serving us was quite old but very hospitable and energetic. When he heard that I could speak a little bit of Japanese, he got really exited. We ordered a huge sushi set, then another one, then a small one on top... Sushi were delicious and fresh, sake was warm and nice and the whole experience of coming to this place was very traditional. It seemed they didn't expect foreigners to come that evening, but as we appeared, they were happy and hospitable.
They even put our shoes in order, facing the other side, so that it is comfortable to put them on when leaving.
The place was supposed to be open until 12, we stayed until 12:40 or so. Thanked for hospitality and left.
Right outside of the restaurant we have met two Japanese guys who were quite tipsy and thus happy to see the foreigners. We had a talk in Japanese-English about how life at Yudanaka was, gave them a few cigarettes and headed to the hotel for some rest before a trip to the show monkey park next day.
SNOW MONKEYS PARK
This morning we had to get up quite early and it wasn't really easy to be honest. Breakfast was served at 8. It was a very nice traditional breakfast with many small meals on many little plates.
After breakfast I went to take a shower. Shower room was shared, it was big and wooden with a hot natural bath in the middle. I attempted to go in but couldn't - it was simply too hot... Only later asked the hotel owner, how hot was the bath - turned out it was only 50 degrees...
At 9 we checked out, took a picture with hotel owners and headed to the monkey park. The hotel owner was so nice to give us a ride to the place.
The park itself was located around 4 kilometers away from our hotel in the mountains. It was quite chilly today with rain. We got dropped off at the park entrance, thanked for hospitality and headed to see the wonders.
As I have mentioned, it was raining. But if you would take a glance higher to the mountains, maybe 300-400 meters higher - it was snowing there. Such a contrast.
Entrance fee to the park itself was 500 yen. As soon as we entered we saw the monkeys, big and small, old and young. The monkey tribe in that area consists of approximately 160 monkeys, who come down to the hot springs during the day and go sleeping back up to the mountains. They seem to be absolutely neutral to the presence of people around. Every monkey was busy with something: some were sleeping, others playing, swimming in a bath, giving massage, posing for a camera, chasing each other etc. Some Japanese visitor left his umbrella on a rock and in a few seconds an agile monkey got a hold of it and attempted to steal it. The rules of the park prohibit to take food and plastic bags in, otherwise monkeys will steal it from you.
Overall it was a wonderful experience and we spent more than an hour looking at monkeys. Here are the pictures you can enjoy:
But not only were we looking at monkeys, but also at the visitors. I was impressed by the sizes of the cameras of some tourists...
WAY BACK
On the way back from the park we decided to take a walk around the village and see the temples and other attractions. Here are few pictures of the area, I really recommend to visit this place if you have a chance.
